1N4001-1N4007
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1N4001-1N4007
1N4001 - 1N4007
Features
Low forward voltage drop. High surge current capability.
DO-41
COLOR BAND DENOTES CATHODE
General Purpose Rectifiers
Absolute Maximum Ratings
Symbol
VRRM IF(AV) IFSM
TA 25 C unless otherwise noted
Parameter
4001
Peak Repetitive Reverse Voltage Average Rectified Forward Current, .375 " lead length TA 75 C Non-repetitive Peak Forward Surge Current 8.3 ms Single Half-Sine-Wave Storage Temperature Range Operating Junction Temperature 50
Value
4002
100
Units
4005
600
4003
200
4004
400 1.0 30
4006 4007
800 1000 V A A C C
Tstg TJ
-55 to 175 -55 to 175
These ratings are limiting values above which the serviceability of any semiconductor device may be impaired.
Thermal Characteristics
Symbol
PD RJA
Parameter
Power Dissipation Thermal Resistance, Junction to Ambient
Value
3.0 50
Units
W C/W
Electrical Characteristics
Symbol
VF Irr IR CT
TA 25 C unless otherwise noted
Parameter
4001
Forward Voltage 1.0 A Maximum Full Load Reverse Current, Full Cycle TA 75 C Reverse Current rated VR TA 25 C TA 100 C Total Capacitance VR 4.0 V, f 1.0 MHz
Device
4002 4003 4004
1.1 30 5.0 500 15
Units
4005 4006 4007
V A A A pF
2003 Fairchild Semiconductor Corporation
1N4001-1N4007, Rev. C1
1N4007 Datasheet Fairchild Download PDF
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Permalink: http://datasheet.emcelettronica.com/fairchild/1N4007
Comments
I still have some old boatanchor rigs around. You know, the big, heavy, tube rigs from the 50's and 60's. Back in those days, the transmitter was separate from the receiver, and you needed some mechanism for going back and forth between transmit and receive. There were electronic T/R switches back then, but they also were big and clunky, had appreciable loss, and were great at generating TVI. Most of us used the good old standby... a footswitch, and a mechanical relay. Fast forward to the 21st century, and that sounds pretty crude. So I imagined this state-of-the-art, solid state circuit that would allow my separate boatanchor RX and TX to function like today's transceivers do... just tap the key, and everything switches automatically. I call this project the BAQSK (BOAT ANCHOR QSK). I am very pleased with the results, and I hope this project is of interest to other Boat Anchor owners
http://www.k9ew.us/boat_anchor_qsk.htm
The original idea to this apparatus comes from an (now) old german crafts book for boys "Werkbuch für Jungen" by Rudolf Wollmann. It uses car ignition coils as high-voltage transformers and can produce several 10s of kilovolts in output voltage.
The principle function of the spark inductor is a set of two inductively coupled transformer coils: a primary coil with a few windings of quite thick wire and a secondary with thousands of windings of isolated, thin wire (the secondary coil in Rühmkorff's original inductor consists of 80km of wire!). In the original ones from the 19th century, a current passing through the primary coil creates a magnetic field which in turn breaks the primary circuit by attracting a relay contact. The magnetic field decays and the contact again closes the primary circuit, pumping a new current pulse through the primary coil. At the same time the changing magnetic field in the core induces a current flow in the secondary coil. Due to its many turns, the induced voltage between both ends of the secondary coil is much higher than the primary voltage and can easily reach some ten thousand volts.
http://www.geocities.com/~uwezi/electronics/projects/inductor.html
Changes:
*
0.1uF capacitors instead of 0.01uF
*
100uF/25V electrolytic capacitor instead of 1uF
*
1N4007 diode to protect from polarity inversion
*
1N4007 in parallel with output capacitor to allow power supply trough coaxial cable
*
TO5 heatsink
With 12V power, the total current is about 50mA and the gain on 160 and 80m is about 20dB
73 de Guido, ik2bcp
http://www.hamlan.org/tech/w7iuvpreamp/
LED light systems offer exceptional reliability and superior light yield vs standard bicycle light systems. This is an evolutionary tutorial on how to power such systems from a dynamo. As you read, you will come across a variety of circuits that can be built at home.
The following projects heavily use power LEDs. They are typically made by manufacturers such as Philips-Lumileds, Cree, Seoul Semiconductor. At the time of writing, these LEDs are subject of rapid improvement. In 6 months from now, a new model of power LED will probably make todays most advanced LEDs look dim. There could even be new manufacturers pushing on the market with superiour LEDs. Due to this, I never recommend any specific part number for the LEDs. The driver circuits are not affected by the type of LED used, as long as it has the typical forward voltage of a white LED.
You might want to know what sort of light output to expect from the circuits on this page. Well, you will only find LED power here. To know the Lumens, you have to download the datasheet of your LED of choice and look up how many Lumens it delivers for the Watts you feed it.
In order to build a bright light, you have to pay attention to three parts: The driver circuit (better if it delivers more power), the LEDs (better if they produce more Lumens per Watt), and the optics / reflectors / lens (better if their efficiency is closer to 100%).
http://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm
To build-up large displays, LEDs seem to be the most inexpensive versus quality and this, in opposition to bulbs, plasma, TL tubes, etc... This kit contains a 7-segments display consisting of 12 leds per segment, respectively, and 4 leds for the decimal point. With the aid of a supplementary power supply with a little requirement, it is possible to connect this kit to any existing circuit equipped with simple common anode displays of any brand and any dimension. Just remove the small displays and connect the segments and anode of this 20cm display to the corresponding connections on the print. If the digit and segment drivers of the circuit can supply enough current it will be possible to connect in parallel two or more displays, or even, leave the small display of the circuit and to add the 20 cm display in parallel. This latter will not affect the brigthness of the 20 cm display due to the special concept of the driver's circuit (see further).
http://circuitspecialists.com/search.itml?icQuery=brigthness